extra-sensitive; these sounds are perceived as being louder than a Hertz sound of At frequencies lower than Hertz, the ear becomes less sensitive; sounds That is, if I find a Hertz tone and a Hertz tone which one person Q. What must be the sound intensity of a Hertz sine wave, if it is to sound. 1 q) osuction = 50 kPa # -— asuction = kPa Tö - barnesreview.infon= kPa l l O Reference stress level, p' or (p-ua) (kPa) to D- I | E. TS, the wet compacted material has smaller predicted pore sizes than those of the increasing water content causes a strong reduction in initial shear stiffness of. 2. Q1 Q 2 0 Q 3. 3. Q 1 Q 2 0 Q 3 If the size in bits of the first packet in the queue is bigger than the deficit.
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Small-world experiment Small-world network Social network Cybersectarianism Panopticon. Retrieved from " https: Community building Community websites Lists of superlatives Social information processing Social software Technology in society Virtual communities. I have 3 completely different subs running 2. My advice is pay attention to their usable freq. I have a car and one of my subs started making a cracking sound. My on sub is at least year old Soundstream SPL Rated at watts and dual 4ohm voice coils.
In a sealed box. My amp is a old Phoenix Gold Xenon My new sub is a JL 12W3V3 -4 a 4ohm subwoofer. I was going to buy the ohm but they were out. This sub is rated at watts. I swapped the subs and this new sub is no where near the old sub as far as volume. I have to increase volume from 15 which had a lot of base to 22 with the new speaker to be close to equal but not even close to the old sub.
Is the old speaker just better or maybe I need the 2 ohm speaker to perform the same? Curtis Bernosky Simply put, the SS sub was louder with less power going to it. You could try increasing your low pass cut to include hz at the high end. This will allow the sub to cover more range, and sound louder. If you listen to rock music, kick drums will sound louder and tighter given the amp isn't too muddy.
If you have a bass boost, try it in the hz range and run the LP to hz, then spend a week with that to get used to it, or not. Too many people brag and focus on 50hz or under as their cut, and loose too much sound from their subs.
Although JL's color graph states that's too much with w being more "nominal", they state elsewhere w is apparently OK.
Dunno if w will sound as loud as the SS though; or buy SS used. I have Mesa Boogie Mark Five 25 head but I do not have proper cab[blocked], the one I have is sort of temporary solution. The thing is that I am thinking about changing the speaker in the cab.
My question is what are the pros and cons to have V speaker matched to 25V head. The thing is that there is no way I will run the Mark Five 25 at even half of its power so, is there any need for such a strong speaker. My aim is to get the better sound not to get louder. Thanks for any comments! A higher wattage speaker just means it can handle more wattage, nothing else.
Sometimes manufacturers sacrifice SPL for higher wattage rating, meaning it'll need the higher wattage to get as loud as a lower wattage speaker with very high SPL.
If loudness is a concern, try and find the highest SPL speaker to make the most out of a 25w head. They have a generic graph that intersects SPL and wattage. If you want to get the most out of them, try finding a used QSC, Peavey, etc.
Type of amps people use on stage, in theaters, etc. Be warned, these amplifiers can pull CRAZY amperage at v and you might want to convert it to v if you plan on going bridging. One of my home amps does w bridged and can pull excess of 35 amps at v if run full-tilt, some of the QSC in this range do amp. At v, amperage is halved. Most home electrical boxes only do or amp MAX, meaning everything in the hose running needs to be considered if on, and most rooms have 20 amp fuse.
Can also stick an EQ in between them and lock out the higher frequencies. Other option if only running bass, is skip an EQ and run some type of bass boosting line driver. You could try running a lower wpc amp and color the signal more with a bass boost. We ran those in the 90's on our cars when wpc was a LOT and could get cheaper SVC subs to be heard blocks away despite only having w at the actual sub.
Though your speakers will most likely like 35hz to hz if I were to guess. I'd recommend tossing in some actual subs that are happy with 25hz to hz to help the 18" sound better if bass is your goal. This is a setup for a small "computer" room 3m x 3m so doesn't need huge sound, just good quality. I am considering a pair of Q acoustic i - but don't want to fry good speakers with my experimental digital amp. Also, any other experiences with this digital amp would be appreciated - things to avoid, or good existing pairings.
Instead I opted for a Dayton Audio DAT, a w digital amp 60w per channel into a 4ohm load, 40w per channel into 8 ohm load, so ideal to drive the Q Acoustics which are rated at w with a nominal impedence of 6 ohm. Having just connected everything, I had [blocked]otten what decent speakers could do I am hearing elements in the music I never knew were there.
Using Spotify at their "high quality" streaming bitrate kbps is surprising me, and FLAC files are quite astonishing. All of this is coming from a pretty standard laptop, from the laptop audio-out, split into the RCA plugs on the Dayton, then into the Q Acoustics with some mid-range speaker-cable. Thanks to Bob for re-directing me to this current setup Those speakers are 6 ohm?
It wouldn't be a good match in my opinion. The speakers are rated 75w to 15w, and I suspect the amp will be out of steam mustering maybe 12w 6ohm. Class T sound good on even cheaper speakers. I suggest finding a 2-way with the highest SPL you can find, so they'll at least be loud enough to enjoy.
Don't get caught up in some flashy name. Try parts express and even consider buying a cheap bookshelf used, and swapping in better speakers. A high SPL mid-bass and, paired with a slightly higher spl tweeter. Class T can subdue brighter tweeters, but maybe avoid piezos. Can you recommend sets of current speakers that this amp would work well with, which would help me compare overall specs.
For example, it seems to be able to drive floorspanding audio nirvana 8's. For example Jensen X1BLs? I'm not suggesting buying these, just to get a feel for the overall spec - and apologies if this is a frequent request - I'm still trying to grapple with wattages, DBs, impedance etc Key goal here for me is to get good sound, at a reasonable price, and keep the speakers as physically small as possible without unduly compromising the sound.
This means when 1 watt is put through that speaker with 95db spl, that's how loud it should be. Lower 86db speaker, would need 8 watt to reach 95 decibels. But if you put that same 8 watts into the 95 db speaker, it's output would be db. That's a huge difference, especially when that's one speaker. Add a 2nd speaker and you only increase 3db. You'll need tweeters and woofers if you are looking for a rounded sound. I've run older car audio Tripath and they turned inexpensive tweeters that aren't the greatest on a class AB mid-tier amp, but sound very smooth on a T.
If they are in your price range, pull the trigger. Getting a very high spl 92 or higher would be good on a good sounding speaker with say watt rms limits on the speaker meaning you shouldn't put more than watts into that speaker if you want it to last , would be enough for a small room on your small output amplifier.
If later on you want to upgrade to say a watt T amplifier, you can still use the same speakers, and any time you want to go louder, that high spl rating means they will do it. If speakers are lacking, sell and try again. I want to change the speaker. How many watts are suitable?
I have just purchased 4 Polk Audio W 6. What specs Amp would i need to power these? Michael Schmidt The first has one 4-watt driver, and the second has two 3-watt drivers 6 watt total.
Can anyone speculate on which will have the louder sound? I listen to metal mostly and I love feeling that foot pedal and any massage I can get, lol. My head unit is the stock Honda Civic Head volume goes to How do I set frequency for that? Most head units have separate sub-preouts with an independent gain adjustment separate from the master volume.
Pretty much all HU with sub-preouts also have a freq. It varies from unit to unit, but most have hz as options. The higher the freq. I leave mine at as I too listen to rock, metal, alt, etc. I'd also suggest setting highpass filter to around hz, so it'll have a little bit of overlap to the subs and hopefully avoid dead spots. Running a factory head unit leaves so much quality on the floor along with tuning options that just upgrading to a decent Pioneer can vastly improve a lousy set up with OK speakers to a much better experience.
Will this amp be sufficient for a smaller room measuring about 12'x12'? Will this combination in any way effect the speakers or the car entertainment system in any way as the wattage of the entertainment system and the speakers is different?
Car audio is NOT regulated like home audio is, meaning the only way you can hope for accurate wattage is if they voluntarily join. With that said, 25w x 4 isn't real unless it's a CEA Adding an amp won't turn door speakers into a bass machine, so stop that mentality right now. Most aftermarket head units have filters.
For 6" and under door speakers, go with a hz and above. Adding an external amp that's high quality will reveal better sound than the HU could ever wish for. They have a simple "tick" You'd be amazed at how many amps are so muddy that sounds almost the same and difficult to distinguish between them.
Figure speakers can handle 50w RMS, so w amp. I suggest running in true stereo vs. If speakers are 4 ohm each, either run them 2 ohm per side or get a healthy 4 ohm amp. Can't really series them due to having a crossover built-in to each speaker.
Can also run 2 smaller amps. With external amps, you'll find you can turn treble 10khz to -5 values and not be overbearing. You'll also learn about amps "coloring" the signal if you try cheaper brands.
All sound different so experiment. I bought a pair of 15" sub-woofers for my car. Currently I have them hooked up to my little Sony Mini Hi-fi system. The speakers themselves work, however when i turn the master volume up past 15 30max , the cooling fan turns on and goes nuts. But I hook up my stock speakers to it and the fan doesn't come on until it is at 24 volume. Why would it do this? Also one of the 15" speakers seems to be "Popping" for some reason, does that mean it is junk or can i fix that.
It isn't as loud as it once was. How did you wire them? Where you turning the bass all the way up with bass boosters max? Fans kick on when amp heats up.
Google "amp clipping" and look at the sites that explain it with a messed up sine wave that has it's peaks cut off. Clipping can ruin speakers regardless of wattage, though really beefy subs can sometimes tolerate it better.
The subs are Kicker CVRs, they are supposed to be safe at w and have a peak at w. The wire is connected to the speakers through a connection already on the box, the one where you push the it down and then the wire goes in the hole.
Also, does the amount of power coming in from the outlet V have anything to do with the speaker acting funny, is it to much power? The wire i honestly don't know what gauge it is, i don't have a tool to measure it. I also believe the ohms for the subs are supposed to be 4 maybe, otherwise it is 2. Now I can finally figure out what it takes to blow my speakers: I'm actually trying to prove someone wrong by saying things I learned here. My speakers are waay too sensitive.
I get really loud sound and crystal clear indeed, with just two and a half watts driving the speakers. Keeping in mind it's 3way. Some subs can tolerate w more than rated but it's risky and shortens life. Home stereo CAN power less powerful speakers, but you MUST be VERY careful with the tone settings and master volume as it's extremely easy to pop the tweeters and overheat voice coils seizing the rest. Again, increasing the ohms to a higher load from 8 to 16 ohm is typically safe and most amps can happily tolerate it and will sound better doing so.
Amps that state "high-current" should NOT be run higher than they are rated for as they are often purpose-built to run 2 ohm or less bridged and 1 ohm to 0. Keeping master volume low enough and avoiding loud volume spikes. What I referenced above is an actual 1 or 2 channel amp or a 2 channel amp bridged mono to produce a full rms wattage to the speaker.
With a 7 channel or even 5. Depends how awesome the amp actually was. If you listen to a 35 wpc 's Marantz or even Pioneer, it'll often walk all over these modern 5. Why they are so popular now is SQ trumps. If you go below that, like say really cheap 15 watt tweeters they'll pop even with capacitors cutting their frequency. I always recommend having tweeters that can handle times the RMS rating to play it safe.
I've seen 50 watt bookshelves loose a tweeter from a sudden volume slip on 65 watt amplifiers. Remember, each speaker you add splits the wattage from the amp. So 3 speakers woofer, midrange, tweeter per channel on a 50 wpc amp will see While that may not sound like a lot, I have a 33 wpc late 70's 2-channel stereo amp that can push a 4-way setup to db JUST playing a bass sine wave at 32 hz.
That's a 15" paper woofer with ribbon surround, a horn mid, and 2 piezo tweeters. That db rating was 2' away from one woofer. Loudness on this particular amplifier seems to be active vs. If your amp is older I'm guessing it's a late 70's Quad amp? This allows the units to be made cheaper with weaker power supplies. This is rampant with 5. It might get "loud" enough for you, then again it might not. With your wpc source.
If it's not loud enough, maybe try wpc. That'd put each speaker at roughly 41 watts each, which is plenty safe for them. You can always bi-amp your system. It'll most likely sound x better plus give better stereo separation.
If you have the cash, look up AB amps dot[blocked]. They aren't cheap, but Bob builds custom to order and they are very powerful. I'm running a late 90's AB b. I refurbed with newer electrolytic caps, metalized film caps, etc.
I been told to buy nad amplifier of 80 watts. Is it the right choice? Am a novice in this field. Thanks in advance for a reply. Will "you" like it? Only you can answer that. Typically speaking, amps in general can sound great, sound like garbage, be too colorful, too bright, too dull, lousy stereo imaging, unable to accurately reproduce highs and bass, are muddy, etc.
Wattage has ZERO effect on sound quality. It's just a limiting factor to help avoid damaging speakers and to also give a rough guideline on how loud it can theoretically get. Buy the NAD and set it up. I suggest playing everything you typically listen to, and pay close attention to detail headphones can help expose more If you all of a sudden "hear" new sounds like more detailed guitar plucking, a sax that's knocking you over, etc.
That's the best way to judge. If it sounds like an utter mess, you all of a sudden can't "hear" things clearly anymore like subtle change ups, etc. How much "louder" will a watt be? If the speaker has an 83 db SPL, w won't sound "that" much louder as the speaker needs a higher wattage than that to get significantly loud. Is the speaker is 91db SPL, going from 15w to w will make a more noticeable difference. One of my home amps from the late 70's is rated at 33wpc.
I have 2 4-way cabs with 15" drivers rated to wrms. If the speaker was 83db, it wouldn't even come close to that db on handheld meter. Just something to think about. S'N Ration is 85db.
Another compared model is Samsung HW-H Sony is ma[blocked]ically shielded. Which one should I choose?. Sony is double the cost of Samsung.
Unless someone has BOTH sound bars and your exact listening tastes, set up, room characteristics, and can use descriptive lingo exactly to your understanding, no one can answer this for you.
It'd be like me asking you to choose between indigo blue or midnight blue for the color of carpeting in my living room which you've never seen and don't know if like short of long loop under my toes. Shielding doesn't really matter anymore unless you have ultra sensitive ma[blocked]ic devices. LCD isn't an issue. Standard PC hard drives seem to be shielded as I have 15" woofer within 6" of 2 HD and it doesn't effect them.
Though I imagine a strong ma[blocked] right on the HD case could be problematic. Sound bars aren't that great, so don't expect much. Ajay Govind Price-wise both are same rate. Which one should I buy which will give me better sound?
But looking at the specs of each unit, I'd lean towards the Samsung as it has a 6" sub vs. These are singular subs by the way. Their ohms don't matter as they apparently have their own amp. Phillips is typically below Samsung in the pecking order. Also noticed the Samsung has an average of 4 stars in most ratings. I suggest looking online at these ratings to see what made people gripe.
If you are buying at a store, see if you can demo them and play with whatever settings they have. Granted, a large open store with tile or concrete floors isn't the best testing grounds to simulate a small room with carpeting and furniture, it should give you an idea. Phil R Currently I house 2 Celestion Vintage 30's at 60watts each, 8ohm. I am looking to swap one of those speakers out for something else.
What wattage window should I stay in so that they both blend well? And I must get one at 8 ohm to match the current speaker, yes? Wattage given to speakers is so they aren't stuck on an overly powerful amp and seized after 10 minutes of bass notes or tweeters popping from being over driven. If you mix speakers in a mono setting, it won't matter much. I find differing speakers can compliment the overall sound. I run an Alpine R 10" round and Kicker L5 12" square both in similarly ported boxes, both getting roughly w each from same amp mono, so they get the same freq.
It's a good bass sound that covers better "bass" a 10" provides along with the more air a 12" pushes. Listening to rock or whatever you'd never know 2 different sizes were being run. In a stereo configuration at lower volumes, it's hard to tell, but put some distance between them and sit in the sweet spot with more volume and you'll hear a difference. With that said, they both have very similar SPL.
Testing with a DB meter, they put out the same. Do you have a good recommendation of a speaker to pair with the V30 to really beef up my sound? Rory K Speaker sensitivity is also a big factor. V30's are rated at db and are quite loud.
Vintage style Jensens that you might find in many Twins might be as low as 96db. It doesn't sound a lot, but consider that a doubling of wattage is equivalent to 3db!
If if were me, I'd be looking for a speaker that had different tonal qualities to get the beef you're looking for. Being a Twin, i'd go for something that was going to provide a Fendery mid range scoop, rated at at-least 40 watts with high sensitivity - I'd recommend Eminence as a starting point. Note, Twins normally sound thin at low volumes i used to own one , you might be better off with a less powerful amp: Really boils down to personal preference and intended usage.
Running from same amp, just try and match SPL and ohms to existing speaker and make sure it can physically cover your intended freq. If you don't mind a physical difference, and 2 speakers of differing composition can fill in some holes with the audio signal.
But again, it's purely your ears that matter. I run paper composition 15" woofers in main home stereo fronts. When time comes to add a dedicated sub channel, it'll get synthetic composition woofer s.
Tech Tip: Wattage, Speaker Efficiency, and Amplifier "Loudness"
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